Hooked for life
Hooked for Life – My Grand Canyon Adventure
I am in love.
I swallowed the bait this place set out for me.
The first time my eyes took in the vast expanse that is the Grand Canyon, I was, let’s say pretty interested. Unfortunately, I let 28 years slip by before realizing my dream of reaching the bottom of the canyon. This is my story of how I not only made it to the bottom, but have now been hooked for life by this immense beauty.
I get emotional just thinking about my experience in the Canyon. More on that later. There was a small window of opportunity due to work commitments, and an overnight hike to Havasu Falls the two previous days, but I pounced the chance to get here. And I will thank myself a thousand times over for realizing the opportunity I had, and further, for taking the opportunity.
Many people would think we were crazy: fly into Vegas, drive to overnight camp and hike into Havasu Falls, then drive to the Grand Canyon for a day hike. Yes, it was crazy, and if that was all that was available, I would do it again - every time.
It’s was an adventure all around; we saw wild boar, deer, elk, coyotes, foxes, mules, horses, cattle, dogs, and even a rarely seen Arizona Ringtail cat – the Arizona State Mammal.
We knew this would be a big day, and it was: 22 miles, 6,500 feet of elevation gain, but we were prepared. There is no way to do this without preparation, and without question, the research, education, and the physical and mental preparation for this was done well.
Shortly after sunrise and a chilly 32 degrees, we descended the South Kaibab trail from the South Rim. We heard the trail was in good condition, but that there were stairs – hundreds and hundreds of stairs. Well, that description was spot on. It is truly incredible to think of the massive amount of man-power and hours it must have taken to build the trail. It is simply astounding.
The South Kaibab (in the Paiute language meaning ‘mountain lying down’) was built during a six-month period from late 1924 to mid 1925. The trail drops through 8 major geological formations over 6.5 miles and roughly 5,000 vertical feet. For construction, one crew began at the bottom and one at the top, eventually meeting to conclude the $73,000 project.
As we dropped down to Ooh Aah Point, we realized we were in for an dreamlike day. As the sun kissed the top of the North Rim, we were treated to an opening of our day that felt like a dream. Quiet, solitude, and unparalleled beauty surrounded us. As we proceeded to Skeleton Point, 3 miles from the South Rim, we could look from east to west for what must have been close to 100 miles. The feeling of walking through history (where at the bottom, rocks date back 1.7 billion years) was a surprising bonus to this incredible journey. As you drop every few hundred feet into the Canyon, you are treated to different variations of rock. It was and is difficult to comprehend how old these rocks go back in time.
Just shy of Skeleton Point we stopped to give way to the mule train directed by the mule skinners, carrying passengers and cargo from Phantom Ranch back up to the South Rim.
About 4.5 miles into our 7-mile descent we reach Tip Off, where the trail descends into the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon. From here we got our first glimpse of the mighty and muddy Colorado – you know, that tiny little river that originates in the Rocky Mountains.
It was just a few steps further now to the Black Bridge. My excitement was rising as we were just about to the bottom! I’ll never forget the feeling of finally achieving this decade old goal of mine…..and already knowing somewhere in the previous miles that I would be back very soon. This mighty river which sits at the bottom of the Grand Canyon is believed to have begun carving the Grand Canyon 5 to 6 million years ago.
We lingered on the north side of the Colorado, taking in the views, and reading up on the Puebloan farmers who lived in these lands many years ago. Remarkable how they survived in the conditions that exist at the depths of the Canyon. They dug dwellings for the winter, and in the summer climbed to the North Rim to escape the extreme heat found at the base of the canyon.
Proceeding further, we ventured into Phantom Ranch. For me a little underwhelming, but a place I know I’ll be back to, as I’ll have to go through there to get up the North Kaibab trail to reach the North Rim. As we were well ahead of schedule and feeling extremely good physically, we stopped to enjoy a leisurely snack and break inside the canteen at the ranch. Of course we had just a bit of work ahead to climb to the South Rim, but we still had well over 6 hours of daylight on this crystal clear day.
Leaving Phantom Ranch, we crossed the Colorado on the Silver Bridge and began our journey upward. The River Trail on the south side of the Colorado was a joy to walk along as we had views of the Colorado for the better part of a mile and a half. It’s not an area you want to mess around in as you could pretty easily put a foot wrong an end up a few hundred feet below in the river.
Now on the Bright Angel trail, our first exploring on the climb up was at Pipe Creek. The vegetation and water running through this canyon was not something we had seen on the South Kaibab trail, and as such it took us by surprise. What was even more fascinating is that we were treated to an abundance of green all the way up to Indian Garden.
Approximately 5 miles from the South Rim, Indian Garden is a great spot to stop for some water and shade, or for those staying longer, a really nice option for a camping base for longer adventures through this astounding National Park.
As we climbed from Indian Garden I began formulating ideas for my next trip back to the Grand Canyon, and it very quickly was apparent to me that my next visit would be much sooner than the long gap in time since my last visit. I’m sure about this time next year I’ll be reporting on a five-night camping experience with day trips to the North Rim, Grandview Point, and Ribbon Falls.
Leaving Indian Garden, we could more clearly see the top of the South Rim. We still had a bit to go, but as we reached 3-mile Rest-house, it was clear that our solitude was about to fade, as numerous day hikers from the top of the Bright Angel trail make this their destination.
In our final push to the top, we encountered all kinds of people and had numerous conversations. We stopped just shy of the lower tunnel and had a ten-minute conversation with a wonderful family who had just arrived at the Canyon and were planning their next day. The four kids were so excited to actually be in the Canyon and their excitement gave me goose bumps – it is a gratifying perk when adventuring to come across others who are so ecstatic to have an opportunity to explore such an iconic place.
This day: just think about it for a minute…..we saw the moon set when we arrived, then we saw the sunrise, later we saw the sunset, and immediately after we saw the moon rise. When do you ever get to do that? And to experience that at this place was the cherry on the top.
But guess what these crazy adventurers did, we got up the next morning for another Canyon sunrise. But not the kind where we arrive to see the sun come up over the horizon. We arrived at the Canyon 75 minutes before sunrise – it was pitch black, stars everywhere. I can’t even describe what it was like to watch the night fade to early daylight, and to be completed with the sun once again kissing the top of the North Rim temples and buttes.
It truly had been an amazing 26-hour experience!
I am truly in love. It has been one week since I left this place. I think about the beauty and grandeur every day. I’m plotting my return in less than a year, and I’m quite convinced that I will return each and every year as long as I can.
This grand venture was very emotional for me as it marks the triumph of a significant season of change in my life. My personal storm has passed, and I have spent tremendous energy into rebuilding my life. I have become stronger, wiser, and more alive than ever before! And that feeling is total AWESOMENESS! I have arrived at a point where I realized who matters, who never did, who won’t anymore, and who always will. Without the pain, I would not have found my purpose. All of the struggles helped me realize how strong I really am. I’m choosing happiness over hurt, forgiveness over resentment, and victory over defeat. And it is a story and a message I will share with others who are working through storms in their life.
One courageous choice may be the only thing between you and your dream becoming a reality. This Grand Canyon experience became a reality, and I’ll enjoy happy trails until we meet again.
