800 calls for Havasu Falls
Havasu Falls and Campground March 2017
When I saw photos of Havasu Falls and the surrounding area for the first time, I knew I had to get there. I heard all the horror stories about calling to get a permit, that day hiking was not an option, and that for some people it took them five years to succeed in securing a permit for this glorious place.
Well, when February 1st rolled around and the permit process opened, I was on the phone. First call, busy signal. Second call, busy signal. Third call, busy signal. You get the idea. I called 800 times that first day – and I’m not kidding. But there is one word that is part of my make up – perseverance. So day two found me back on the phone. First call, busy. Second call, busy. Third call, busy again. Wanting some reassurance that I was not the only one having this issue, I hopped on to a Facebook page for hiking in this area and BOOM! Word was out that there was an online system that had just opened – and people were booking dates. I was on it in a flash and booked the only night that fit our schedule. I can’t tell you the last time I was this excited. We had a permit in hand to get to the promised land!!!!!
This trip was one where you might say I was making the most of the opportunity that was available. Only a small window of time was available due to other circumstances, so it was hike down one day, and hike back up the next. Most people would call us crazy, especially if they knew our itinerary: 7am flight out of Seattle, land in Vegas at 9:30am, grab a rental car and drive to the Hualapai Hilltop parking lot to begin our hike down to the Havasu Campground.
Arriving at the parking lot about 4pm, we got our stuff organized and hit the trail at 4:30pm. Two very kind and polite tribal members were in their building at the trailhead waiting for us – “We wondered when you were going to get here,” they commented. “You’ll be descending in the dark so make sure you know where you’re going,” they advised. Handing off our brand new Seattle Sounders scarf as a token gift of our appreciation for them allowing us to hike down on their land, we began our descent. It’s ten miles down to the campground, and with our 30 lb. packs, record time was not an option, which meant the final part of our trek would indeed be in the dark.
We took in the amazing Havasu Canyon sights as we descended. A fairly well defined trail over scree, compacted dry mineral soil, and some loose rock carried us from the parking lot to the village of Supai.
As we entered the village to check-in, we were politely greeted, given our wristbands, and clearly directed to the trail through the village and the last two miles down to the campground. Upon arrival in the campground, we found a site, put up our tent and got settled for sleep, as we were early to rise the next morning.
Our original plan for day two was to hike down to Mooney Falls, then further to Beaver Falls. However, upon arriving early in the pre-sun morning at the slippery sloped footholds down to the base of Mooney Falls, we paused to ponder, as one wrong step would mean a fall of about 200 feet – not likely to be a good outcome. Because our time was short, we did not have the option of waiting for the sun to dry these footholds, so instead we explored the top of Mooney Falls and the accompanying Havasu Creek area at the top of the falls.
With our day now altered, we came up with plan B, packed up camp and headed to spend time at the base of Havasu Falls. On this quickly warming 75 degree morning, the pools at the base of Havasu Falls were calling us, so in we went. Water flows down Havasu Creek and then tumbles 90-100 feet to the awaiting pool below, where it is with amazing force with which the current is created in this small swimming hole.
I’m always game for diving in an alpine lake, and I’m now adding swimming at the base of waterfalls…..it was a great new experience for me, one I’ll repeat every chance I get.
There are about a dozen smaller ‘plunge pools’ around the base of Havasu Falls, created by the rocks in the area. We took some time lounging in these pools and soaking in the warmth of the sun.
Knowing we had a long day yet ahead of us, we dried off to begin our 10-mile climb back to the car. We made our way back into the village of Supai, conversing with kids as they played in the streets. As we reached the snack shack, we were greeted by Mucal, a young Havasupai girl who had the cutest smile and most infectious personality. She waved us over to the nearby fence where she so happily handed out a beautiful petal from a flower she had picked. She had such joy in this little act of kindness; it’s too bad the barbed wire fence was between us, because this girl deserved a huge hug for her kind actions! Should I return in the next year or so, I will be thinking of something fun to bring to her!
This tribe has had a rough go. They have had their land taken away. They have fought to regain parts lost, and they have figured out a way to try to survive. As they attempt to live the way of their ancestors, they are challenged by the current times. Some kids walk the streets of Supai, iphones in hand…..it’s truly an incredible sight to see in this simple village.
As we made our way the last 8 miles back to the parking lot, I couldn’t help think of how incredibly fortunate I am. To be able to walk, to be able to carry my gear, and to be able to experience the beautiful land and interact with the wonderful Havasupai people. This journey into a canyon miles from the closest city has forever changed me. I often think of the people I met, the land I walked, the sights I saw, and how I’ve grown from this journey into lands unknown.
NEXT UP: Grand Canyon in a day
